Backpacking Western Australia
You only need to glance at your Australia map to see that Western Australia takes up a lot of the continent. And Australia is a big place. Consequently, you don’t have to be a genius to figure out that Western Australia is a big state: in fact, it is massive – taking up around a third of the Australian continent, and larger than Argentina... It has cattle stations bigger than England!
Although this vastness is enough to blow your mind, it doesn’t equate to a massively populated state (it has just over 2m inhabitants), with three quarters of the state’s population reside in Western Australia’s capital, Perth. This isn’t to say that you should just go to Perth: the state has mile upon mile of deserted postcard-perfect beaches, plenty of outback, and some beautiful forests and countryside to the south. But Perth is a great city!

Where is it and what’s there?
Western Australia borders the Northern Territory and South Australia to its East, and sits in the Indian and Southern Oceans to the west, leaving it exposed to the vast ocean swells that head up to the coast from the Roaring Forties. The beaches are perfect, but don’t expect the tropical lagoons of South East Asia.
Perth is situated on the Swan River on the southwest of the state. It is the most isolated city of its size on the planet – and many ‘Perthites’ believe that this gives them a unique outlook and attitude amongst Australians. The state also has some of the best wine regions on the planet and Western Australian wine has grown in the last 20 years to become a stalwart of the ‘quality’ wine scene. Perth also has more sunshine hours than any other Australian city: another reason (if it was needed) to be smug!
The climate
Due to its size Perth falls into two distinct climactic categories. The north is tropical (dry from April-September), with average temperatures year round between 25 and 30°. The north also experiences some awe inspiring electrical storms and tropical rainstorms (some coastal regions record 1.5 metres of rain during the wet season).
The south of the state (including Perth) has a more standard 4 season year. With summer hot (30+) and sunny, and winters pretty grey and (by Australian standards) cold – averages of around 12° in August.

Getting there
You will either arrive in West Australia by air, car (probably 4x4) or train. Perth airport is large, efficient and everything that you’d expect for a city of Perth’s size. Starting an Australian trip off in Perth is a good option – with the chance of a slightly more genuinely Australian experience than the hostel driven lifestyle of the East Coast.
If you arrive by car or 4x4 then you have the choice of 2 ‘sealed roads’: the Eyre Highway from Adelaide, or the Victoria Highway from Perth. Either way, you will have a lot of driving ahead of you to get around the state (allow 7-10 days to drive from Darwin to Perth). If you are driving ‘cross state’, then that first ‘middy’ on arriving in Perth will taste great: guaranteed!
The Indian Pacific train service also has a service running from Perth to Sydney (this is generally a more expensive option than flying, but can be a great way to see the South of the continent if you buy an open ticket).
Getting around
Getting around West Australia can be quite a challenge! In truth: all roads lead to Perth. If you’ve driven here then you’ll probably feel like you’ve seen plenty of the state, if you’ve flown here, then your best bet is to hire a 4x4 and spend a week or so exploring the area around Perth (it doesn’t take long at all to ‘escape’ the city and find yourself pleasantly isolated).
In terms of getting around Perth, there are modern and comprehensive bus and train services (with free buses to get you around the CBD). There are also ferries that travel up and down the Swan River, and also cross over to Fremantle.
Things to do
Western Australia can feel like a bit of an anomaly, it is so big, yet – with Perth – seems only to have one ‘main’ attraction. This isn’t far from the truth: Perth is a real Australian highlight, and many backpackers are surprised by how much they like it (it is a real contrast to the East Coast). There are, however, a wealth of worthwhile sites to see, and experiences to have - some close to Perth, some further afield...
The Goldrush. Head to Kalgoorlie, and Australia’s ‘Golden Outback’. You can easily combine some aboriginal encounters and history with a trip to this still busy mining town. Plus some great bush walks and easy to get to from Perth.
Broome. Definitely not a day trip from Perth (although you can fly!), but well worth a visit if you’re really ‘living it’ and driving around Western Australia. Broome and the surrounding area is one big scenic treat. From the 15 mile long ‘Cable Beach’, to bright red cliffs, to dinosaur footprints...
Margaret River. With a ‘Mediterranean’ climate, some staggering beaches, numerous watersports options and some fantastic wineries this area is an incredibly popular holiday destination for Australians: which tells you something!
Perth. Although Australia does try ‘cosmopolitan’ and ‘cool’ elsewhere, it’s only in Perth (ok, and Melbourne!) that it gets it right! All the city clichés apply here: vibrant, exuberant, buzzing. You really can have a pretty perfect night out here, and it needn’t break the budget. Plus you can travel around on the ferries and join the rest of Perth’s population on the beaches (everyone goes to the beach after work).
Rottnest Island. This car free island is a short ferry ride from Perth. You can hire a bike and go exploring or chill out on one of the secluded beaches. But the highlight has to be the Quokka – a small (and very cute) marsupial that lives on the islands out of harm’s way of predators: they are awesome!
Western Australia is a very different cultural experience to the rest of the continent, and it has a very different vibe to Sydney. Do make sure that you commit some time to Perth, but – if feasible – give yourself the opportunity to truly get away from it all and head for the fringes of this massive region.
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