Backpacking South Australia

South Australia sits comfortably on that list of destinations that you ‘didn’t expect to like as much as you did’. The fact that it is not high up on the list of backpacker destinations (or for general tourism for that matter) means that Southern Australia can be a refreshing break from the ‘backpacking must-dos’ of the rest of Australia. This isn’t to say that it’s boring – it isn’t – but it is a great place to stop off, take a few breaths and chill out for a while.

Summertime is pleasantly hot, and there are some great attractions (Kangaroo Island is well worth heading to). A lot of backpackers also elect (or are forced!) to stop here and work for a few weeks if they’ve done one too many bungee jumps, or quaffed one too many pitchers along the way...

Where is it and what’s there?

South Australia shares part of its border with every other mainland state in Australia. It is sandwiched between Western Australia and Victoria on the south coast, and borders New South Wales and Queensland to the east and north east, with the Northern Territory completing the circle. With almost 1500 miles of coastline, South Australia definitely does the beach thing: and you don’t need to worry about crowds or parking (quite refreshing if you come this way from Sydney). The state reaches up well into central Australia and ‘The Outback’ begins once you pass ‘Flinders Range’ - South Australia’s highest mountain range - around 120 miles north of Adelaide, and ends at the Northern Territory.

The climate

Although not tropical, the north of the state is climactically extreme: very hot and dry in the summer, and still relatively hot, but with very cold nights in the winter. As you move down towards the coast, the climate becomes more seasonal, with the winter being relatively mild and wet, and the summer generally dry and hot (average summer temperatures are 27°!). If you’re coming from Europe then South Australia will have a familiar seasonal feel, but the summers actually are like summer!

Getting there

Adelaide has a relatively large airport. It does accommodate international flights, but these are generally from Asia and New Zealand. You can fly to Adelaide from most other regional airports in Australia.

The likelihood is that you’ll be arriving by car, bus or train. The Indian Pacific (Sydney to Perth train) stops off in Adelaide and, if you’re using this then Adelaide is a great half way spot. If you’re driving or on a bus then access is straightforward with numerous Highways running into the state along the south coast and the internal borders. Don’t be alarmed if you see roadblocks as you enter South Australia – you aren’t going to be arrested – the state uses road blocks for quarantine purposes. Due to the importance of the fruit growing industries in South Australia, it is illegal to take any fruit or vegetables into the state.

Getting around

As with the rest of the continent, getting around is relatively straightforward: it just takes a long time! The coastal roads can be stunning, and you can easily spend a few days with a tent and your car just exploring deserted beaches. Standard rules apply if you’re taking a long journey: be prepared. Adelaide to Perth is around 1500 miles and (if you drive nonstop!) a good 3 days on the road.

It is also possible to begin 4x4 trips into the interior from Adelaide, either to the Flinders ranges, or all the way through to Alice Springs. These are great routes, and several tour operators offer packages – definitely worth considering. Adelaide is also firmly on the map of the backpacker bus operators, so no problem with getting to or from the South Australian capital.

Things to Do

Lake Eyre. When it is full, Lake Eyre is the size of Holland! This has only happened a handful of times, however, but thankfully the lake is equally spectacular when it is empty and a salt crust covers the basin. A land speed record was set here in 1964, and it is a surreal and beautiful place.

Flanders Range. Although you could head up for a day from Adelaide, it is worth arranging a tour or accommodation and spending a few days around Flanders Range. There are some awesome trails, aboriginal rock art sites and fossil remains. You can hire bikes to get a bit further afield, or if you’re of a more active persuasion, you can hire mountain bikes and take on some of the more extreme off-road trails.

Galleries. South Australian is perhaps the most ‘artistic’ Australian state. There are galleries catering for all artistic tastes, including the idiosyncratic ‘Talc Alpha Rink Outback Rep-Public Art Gallery’, where Outback legend Talc Alf chips away at his stone carvings and welcomes backpackers on their way north through the state.

Kangaroo Island. If you’re picturing a small island just off the coast of South Australia then think again. Kangaroo Island is Australia’s third largest island (Tasmania is its largest), and it is 93 miles long, and 35 miles wide. It is almost a ‘mini-country’, and has numerous small villages, some stunning forestry and amazing wildlife: there are several seal colonies and the island is protected by various National and Conservation parks. Access from the mainland is by ferry.

Adelaide. Adelaide has a slightly more genuine feel to it than other Australian metropolis - it definitely feels ‘lived in’ rather than travelled through! Consequently it is quite homely and – if you are planning on holing up for a few weeks – a good option (plus there are less temptations placed on your budget!). Adelaide is also situated amongst some famous wine regions, so a good choice if you’re a wine fan (if you’re not – you probably will be by the time you leave). There are plenty of unpretentious and welcoming hostels.

South Australia is one of the more chilled out spots to end up on your travels. Without the 24 hour party vibe of the East Coast, or the ‘extreme’ feel of the North or the centre, it is a great place to just ‘live Australia’, take stock and get yourself prepared for the next leg of your trip.

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