Backpacking in Peru
Peru is the quintessential South America. Although there is enough in Peru to keep you busy for a few months, there is one primary draw for backpackers and general tourist alike, and it makes the hours upon hours on buses, the unpredictable weather - even the hordes of North American tourists worth it: the Inca Trail. When you get to Machu Picchu and see the sacred valley, it’s impossible not to be amazed by the achievements of the Incas (and equally amazed by the speed with which their colonisers destroyed an entire culture).
There is plenty of history and culture throughout Peru (too much for some backpackers!), but it’s definitely worth filling your boots and making sure you commit the sites and stories to memory: Peru one of those countries that can shift your perspective for ever... Plus there are some great places to just hang out, and – for surfers – the longest ‘left-hand’ wave in the world!

Where is and what’s there?
Peru takes up a significant part of South America’s west coast. It occupies a big chunk of the west of the wider part of the country, and is bordered by Ecuador and Columbia to the north, Brazil and Bolivia to the east, and Chile (which runs all the way down to the tip) to the south. Its coast is all on the Pacific Ocean. The country is essentially pretty safe, but you need to be careful – or avoid – areas close to the Colombian borer (see Columbia page).
The Andes are Peru’s most significant topographical feature and, as a consequence, the country can be neatly divided into three distinct regions. The costa (coast), the sierra (highlands), and – to the east – the selva (rainforest). The costa is essentially a narrow strip (as narrow as 10 miles at some points), but this is where most of the population reside and where all of the main cities are.
The Climate
Remember that – especially as you head south – Peru is not an equatorial country. Although temperatures in the summer can be very hot, it is not like this year round, especially in the south. ‘Summer’ runs from October through to April (Jan and Feb being the hottest), and this is the rainy season in the mountains.
The best (and busiest!) time for heading into the highlands is June to August. Even then, remember that the higher you go the colder it gets, so make sure you’re prepared.

Getting there and visas
Lima has Peru’s primary airport: the Jorge Chávez International Airport. The airport is served by several major airlines, and starting off here is a popular choice for a South American tour (even if you’re starting elsewhere, there’s a high chance your plane may stop off here en route!).
The Pan American Highway passes straight through Peru (following the coast), making road transport in and out of the country a realistic option. You can catch a bus down from Quito in a couple of days, and buses run from most other South America’s capital cities to Lima. Arriving by train is also an option: the Southern Railway links Tacna, in southern Peru, with Arica, in Northern Chile.
Assuming you’re backpacking from Europe or North America, you’ll be entitled to a 90 day visa on arrival.
Getting around
As with the rest of the (massive!) continent, expect to travel extensively by bus. The services are generally good and link all main cities and larger towns. It is generally worth booking in advance to ensure that you have a seat. Peru also has a rail network – it won’t do you much good for longer journeys, but the Lima to Huáncayo route is the second highest railway in the world and offers a truly epic perspective of Peru. You can also, if you don’t fancy the trek, get to Machu Picchu by train.
Getting around the cities by taxi is a great option: although only use the licensed yellow taxis. These don’t have meters so make sure you agree the fare beforehand.
Things to do while backpacking in Peru
Unsurprisingly, most of the great things to do in Peru are centred around the country’s remarkable history. Don’t be put off by this though: even the most hardened ‘anti-culture’ backpacker will be left dumbstruck by what Peru has to offer.
• Nazca Lines. The Nazca civilisation occupied the Nazca region of Peru between around 300BC and 800AD. They etched spectacular geoglyphs (large pictures) into the desert which can only really be appreciated by air. Definitely worth doing – you’ll see massive etching of birds and reptiles and be left wondering: how did they know how they looked...?
• Surfing – If you follow the coast north from Lima then there are some great surfing beaches - with associated ‘surf culture’ built up around them. There are places to hire equipment, and companies running surf tours around the area. The wave at Chicama has a legendary status amongst surfers – generally accepted to be the longest ‘left-hander’ in the world, it has been ridden for 2.2km.
• Trekking to Machu Picchu – Undoubtedly the most famous and most visited Peruvian feature, if you’re in South America this really is a backpacking essential. Government regulations dictate that you must go on a recognised tour with a guide, and the number of tours allowed on the trail at any one time are limited - so allow a couple for days in Cusco to find a good tour and wait your turn. You can do various length treks: if at all possible try to get to Machu Picchu for sunrise: an experience guaranteed to remain etched into your memory.
• Markets – Peru is well known for its markets, for its alpaca wool products and for its carvings. It is worth heading to a market and checking these out and maybe look at posting some bits home rather than carrying them in your pack. Haggling is ok, but don’t forget that many of the traders are living on the poverty line: don’t go overboard.
Peru is quite rightly at the top of many ‘global lists’ of places to visit. And it should certainly be on the itinerary of any South American backpacking tour. Of course Machu Picchu steals the show, but there is plenty more to see, and you’ll definitely have ticked the ‘cultural’ box of your trip by the time you move on.
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More about Peru...
Inside Peru - If you've never been to Peru,
well you've just got to see it to believe it!
Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca, and the Amazon Jungle...plus
hundreds of lesser-known but completely awesome sights.
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