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Backpacking in Laos
Landlocked Laos compliments and accentuates the South East Asian backpacking experience. Laos is still a communist country, and backpackers (or any kind of international traveller) were banned from Laos until 1988, when the country first opened its doors to the outside world and travelling here became an option. Laos – unlike many other ‘recent’ top destinations around the world – has not succumbed to the temptations of ‘mass-tourism’ however and (for the most part) remains very much unspoiled and a genuinely tantalising option for the ‘off the beaten track’ backpacker. Both as a travelling destination, and as a country in its own right: nothing much has changed in Laos for hundreds of years, and that seems to suit the population just fine! Laos has a vibe that is very much its own and soaking it up is an integral part of any South East Asian experience.

Where is it and what’s there?
For a region renowned for its perfect white beaches and crystal clear beaches, Laos may seem to have a bit of a raw deal: it is the only landlocked country in South East Asia. Laos is bordered by Cambodia to the south, Thailand to the west (much of which is defined by the Mekong River), Vietnam to the east and China to the North. What Laos lacks in beaches, however, it makes up for in breathtaking scenery and phenomenal trekking potential.Laos (even by South East Asian standards) is a poor country, and much of its income is derived through trade with China to the north. The capital Vientiane is situated close to the Thai border, and is a refreshingly mellow affair compared to other capitals in the region: it feels more like a (very large!) village than the hectic sprawling metropolis of, say, Bangkok.
The Climate
Due to the mountainous nature of Laos, it can be difficult to decide when it’s best to visit. Although the dry season is preferably, trekking in the mountains in the dry season can be very cold. In broad terms, the rainy season (and it is rainy!) runs from May to November and the dry season suns from December to April (with March and April being notably warmer).As with many other places in the region, a good selection of appropriate clothing is the best way to ensure that the weather doesn’t detract from the Laos experience!
Getting there and visas
Flying to Laos is an option, and there are regular flights from Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia. The country has three international airports, although you are most likely to arrive into Vientiane airport, which is good – as it is well located for starting a tour of the region!In reality, although flying is viable, you are probably more likely to have Laos down as one of your ‘secondary’ locations and most backpackers hop over from Thailand, Vietnam or Cambodia. Access from all of these countries is possible, although Cambodia only has one crossing (and no visa available on arrival) versus Vietnam’s 6, and Thailand’s 7. Of these, the most frequented by backpackers are the Thai crossing at NongKhai/Vientiane and the Vietnamese Nam Phao/Cau Treo. A standard 30 day tourist visa is sufficient for most people’s needs, and these are available at some borders (check before you go!) and also at Lao embassies, and at some travel agents. If you are drawn in by Laos’ magical charms, then visa extensions can be sorted out at the immigration office in Vientiane and cost $2-3 per extra day.

Getting around
You do have ‘all’ options for travelling around Laos, but the only efficient and dependable means of getting around is to fly. And if you want to see anything of the country, then you don’t want to do that! This means that you’re left with two main options: Bus or Boat. Travelling by bus is cheap and the bus network is comprehensive: you can realistically travel the entire country by bus. This is not to say that travelling by bus is a streamlined and efficient experience: it isn’t! The buses are generally old (not dangerous, just slow), and will stop wherever required for passengers. This can make them slightly infuriating if you are travelling any distance - just take a deep breath and remember how little you’re spending and the fact that you will definitely get there eventually! A viable alternative - and worth doing to break up the generally bus-centred travel itinerary - is to catch a boat for part of your journey. As the bus network has become more comprehensive, the number of boats taking travellers up and down the Mekong has declined, but there are still a number of both ferries (slow) and speedboats (fast!). And the river really is a fantastic perspective from which to see more of Laos.
Things to do
• Luang Prabang. The epitome of soulful and meditative culture, this riverside town was declared a World Heritage Site in 1995. Perched on a spit of land where the Mekong and Khan rivers meet, the town combines Buddhist temples with French Indochinese architecture providing a genuinely unique ‘look’ and an incredibly special feel.... Arrive by boat to sense the magic from the outset.• Tubing. Ok, we never said that it was totally unspoilt! The town of Vang Vieng has found a unique way to entertain backpackers: tubing. You hire an inflated ‘tube’ and cruise down the river stopping at one (or more) of the numerous bars, many of which also have waterslides or rope swings. Definitely not a ‘cultural’ experience but if you can’t beat them... • Ride an elephant. You have come to the other side of the world: it would be a bit rude not to! One of the best options is to travel by elephant to Tad Sae waterfall from Luang Prabang. • Vientiane. You may well arrive here and it is worth spending a few days soaking in the unique vibe of the capital. Hire a bike and cruise along the tree lined avenues, or the banks of the Mekong. Less of a sensory overload than other capitals – in fact, a genuinely sensory pleasure. • Trekking. For many Laos is synonymous with trekking, and deservedly so. It really does have something for everyone, from genuinely untouched trails for seasoned trekkers, to accessible and great introductory routes for those who are just starting out. Laos is an enchanting and exhilarating country with a vibrant culture, a different political system and enough untapped potential to keep the intrigued backpacker entertained for far longer than they may have first imagined... Enjoy.
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