Backpacking in India

Backpacking in India requires a lot of planning and you certainly can’t expect to take it on in a few days! India is the seventh largest country in the world, the second most populous country after China and speaking over 200 different languages: whichever way you look at it, India is big country with a lot going on.

Despite its slightly daunting scale though, for most people backpacking in India has a unique and indescribable allure. The country has a deserved reputation for accessibility, for being generally safe and for having numerous relatively well mapped out routes for backpackers – with a genuine ‘something for everyone’ vibe – from mountaintop temples and spiritual retreats to three-day beach parties. Above all, backpacking in India has a reputation as being truly blow-your-mind different, and (most importantly?!) for being cheap! No wonder then that many backpackers return here for a more detailed exploration after a brief encounter as part of a round-the-world trip.

Backpacking in India is a visual, cultural and spiritual feast and it takes a while to acclimatise to the idiosyncrasies of the country, which is fine because you really would be hard pushed to overspend backpacking in India – a couple of activity packed days on the Gold Coast would easily see you through a couple of weeks in India (even a couple of months if you’re fully immersing yourself in the Indian way of life). The other ‘plus’ to India is that getting around to all corners of the country is doable – it can be infuriatingly long winded and unpredictable, but the country has over 7000 railways stations, so you will get there in the end, and (keep telling yourself this!) it won’t cost you much at all.

There is, of course, a great deal of poverty in India, but equally the country’s economy is growing faster than nearly every other on the planet – so it is an exciting time for Indians, although you’ll sense this more amongst the workers in the cities than amongst the rural masses.

So, get the map out, try to time your India stint for when you think you may be pleased to be spending Rupees not Dollars, and just chill out and let this remarkable country wash over you...

Where is it and what’s there?

The country is grouped into states (28) and union territories (7) and these are (thankfully for getting your head around backpacking in India!) grouped into six distinct regions. The regions are all, of course, massive – in fact many of the individual states are larger than many European countries – and they vary greatly in terms of their history and their culture: from the geographically staggeringly Himalayan North, through to the thousands of temples and thousands of miles of beachside nirvana in Southern India. The capital, Delhi, lies in the centre of the country in The Plains, and India’s largest city, Mumbai, sits aside the Arabian Sea to the west.

India’s primary geographic feature is the Himalayas – the highest mountain range on the planet. The mountains are responsible for providing the life force for much of the country, in the form of the rivers which begin their lives here – the largest of which is the Ganges which flows through the country and into the Bay of Bengal.

Climate

The Himalayas are of course the exception to this rule, and experience much more extreme variations in temperature, with much of the Western Himalayan region being under significant amounts of snow between December and March. So if you’re backpacking in India exploits include any plans for trekking, head to the mountains between May and September.

Getting there and visas

You can also arrive overland from Pakistan, Bhutan, Nepal and Bangladesh, but these border crossings are not all straightforward so definitely don’t just ‘turn up’ hoping for the best.

In terms of visas – nationals of pretty much all countries do require a visa, and these need to be arranged in advance. It’s important to note that visas are valid from the date of issue, not the date of arrival in India, so if backpacking in India forms part of a longer trip then you’ll need to ensure that you either sort out your visa before leaving (if it’s an early stop), or know where you’ll need to arrange it from (if it’s later on in your travels).

You will most likely need a tourist visa which is valid for six months. You can get multiple entry tourist visas which – even if you think you will not stray from the country – don’t cost any more and you never know...

Getting around

Air India is the state owned carrier and used to have a monopoly over domestic flights within the country, other ‘low cost’ carriers now also operate which has driven down prices considerably. In general terms, the earlier you book the cheaper your flight will be, so try to plan ahead, and – although you may be used to arriving for short haul flights 45 minutes before departure back home – arrive with at least a couple of hours to spare in India: airports are notoriously bureaucratic.

In terms of rail travel, the first Indian Railway was built in 1853 and, over 150 years later, rail is still the main form of medium and long distance travel in India, and rail travel is an integral (and generally enjoyable) part of backpacking in India. There are a bewildering number of different trains, ranging from the nonstop ‘Duronto Expresses’, which serve larger cities and state capitals, through to ‘Suburban trains’, which stop at all stations in urban areas. If you’re really watching the pennies, then Express and Fast Passenger trains are cheaper than their non–stop counterparts and will get you there eventually. There are six classes of train travel too (although not all are available on every train!), the key here if you’re going a longer distance is to get aircon, otherwise things can get pretty unbearable – second class carriages are the cheapest ‘with aircon’ option, and are where you’ll find most backpackers!

Bus travel is an essential means of transport for areas not served by the rail network. ‘Standard busses’ are an experience in themselves; they will just keep on stopping with no regard for how many people are on board. On the up side they are incredibly cheap. There are also pre–bookable buses for longer journeys, these can be pretty comfortable (with aircon) and not crowded – but nothing can make up for the fact that the roads can be quite poor.

Travelling in cities, and there are taxis and ‘autos’ (a kind of three wheeled motorised rickshaw) which are everywhere, and a very cost effective way of travelling around.

Things to do

Delhi. The capital of India really does epitomise the country: ‘old’ Delhi is just as you would imagine ancient India with colourful markets and bazaars, impossibly narrow streets and the hustle and bustle of millions of people going about their business. ‘New’ Delhi is modern and has a contemporary feel that wouldn’t be out of place in many western capitals.

Agra. A city famous for its one major attraction: the Taj Mahal. The iconic World Heritage site took over 20 years to build and – although a staggering site in its own right – is all the more magical if you can get there for sunrise or sunset.

Cricket. In reality you’ll be lucky to make it through a day in India without seeing someone playing cricket. The sport is a unifying national obsession and international games in particular will draw sell-out crowds of up to 100,000, and mind–bogglingly large television audiences (India vs. Pakistan matches can get audiences of 1 Billion!). Try and get to a game where, what’s lacking comfort, is easily made up by the atmosphere.

Andaman Islands. Relatively inaccessible until the last decade or so – and you still need a permit to visit most of them – the Andaman Islands truly are a frontier. There are tribes here who are thought to have never had any contact with the outside world. Plus there’s some amazing diving and snorkelling, and some great seafood.

Festivals. There are carnivals and religious festivals throughout the year. Expect processions of floats, guitars and drums, and non–stop dancing. A truly Indian experience.

5-Star Train. If you take a Rajdhani or Shatabdi train then you’ll get meals at your table and air-conditioned comfort. Or for the full ‘Orient Express’ style experience, there are various tourist trains which you’re on for a week or more and take in sights along the way...

Hawa Mahal. Or ‘The Palace of the Winds’ is an amazing sandcastle of a building. It’s five stories high and incredibly intricate, and is where ‘women of the court’ would sit behind the stone carved screens (ensuring they couldn’t be observed from outside) and pass their time watching the bustle of the bazaar below.

Carvings. Visit any market to find beautifully detailed and perfectly realised wood and stone carvings: from fruit bowls, to figurines, to elephants. Remarkable workmanship, and just the kind of thing to take home as a reminder of your time backpacking in India.

Beach Party. Made famous as a top hippy hideout in the 60s, the beaches of Goa have lost some of their ‘underground’ allure. If you keep your ears to the ground though, there are still some pretty impressive parties and festivals throughout the region.

River Ganges. The river is the lifeblood of much of India, and one of its holiest Hindu locations. It winds 1500 miles from the Himalayas to the Bay of Bengal and, at dawn, the banks are crowded with pilgrims and holy men praying and performing religious rituals. Quite a sight.

Kasmir. This disputed territory is a staggeringly beautiful place. Spring sees much of the country burst into colour from the millions of flowers that are grown here and seem to cover every surface. Other options include some world-famous angling, as well as skiing in the winter.

National Parks. India has 93 protected national parks which are home to some stunning geographic scenery as well as to some of India’s more famed wildlife – including the Indian tiger and the Asiatic elephant. There are various tour and safari options that are a great way of seeing this side of India and – assuming you’ve spent less than expected for the rest of your stay – could be worth treating yourself to.

Backpacking in India is guaranteed to leave you with colourful memories for the rest of your life. The many faces of the country: the people, the culture, the landscapes and the history, ensure that you’ll definitely never be bored or feel as if you’ve ‘seen it all’. Pretty much every day will produce something else to stun you, and the fact is that backpacking in India really can be a life-changing experience..!

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All about India
A complete guide for backpacking in India with the best backpacking destinations, places to stay, tips, stories and more!