Backpacking in Chile
Chile (or, when you first see it on the map: ‘the long thin one’!) certainly looks quite striking, and it can be an eye-catching feature of many backpacking itineraries. If you’re looking for the sunny, hostel driven backpacking experience then your options are somewhat limited, but if you’re looking for a country which can claim the world’s driest desert, world-renowned vineyards and some epic skiing and snowboarding within its borders, then Chile is exactly where you want to spend some time.
Since the end of Pinochet’s dictatorship in 1990 Chile has become – by South American standards – a relatively stable and prosperous country and, especially if you’ve allowed a few months for your backpacking exploits in South America, then it is definitely worth committing plenty of time to.
Where is it and what’s there
Chile makes up the western side of the tip of South America. It runs from its border in Peru 4630kms all the way down to Cape Horn. To the east, it is bordered by Argentina and Bolivia.
As with the whole of the coast, the topography of Chile is dominated by the Andes, which essentially form the eastern border of the country. The capital, Santiago sits about half way down the country between the Andes and the coastal region.
The climate
At over 4500 kilometre long (only slightly less distance than London to New York), it isn’t surprising to hear that you can’t generalise about Chile’s climate...
The north can be very hot, and very dry inland (some sections of the desert have an average annual rainfall of 0.6mm!). The south is highly seasonal, and cold and wet – Puntas Arenas (the southernmost city of its size in the world) has average lows in July of -1°, and average highs in the summer (January) of 14°.
If you’re not heading south for the mountains and the snow, then the furthest south you will get is likely to be the capital Santiago. Santiago essentially has a pleasant Mediterranean climate, with temperatures often in the mid to high 20s in the summer. Winter can be pretty damp, but the rains are limited to May through to August.
Getting there and visas
Santiago has an international airport and – even if you’re already in South America – think about flying here (at least one way). The airport is around 30 minutes from Santiago and there are cheap shuttle buses into the city.
The journey can, of course, be done by bus - but it is a mission. There are buses from all over the continent to Santiago and they are in the main pretty comfortable. But bear in mind that the bus from Quito to Santiago takes around 80 travelling hours – assuming nothing breaks down and all the roads are clear!
Providing you have at least 6 months left on your passport, a visa isn’t required for most nationalities entering Chile.
Getting around
Chile has a surprisingly good airport network, with several carriers providing frequent and relatively cheap flights around the country.
Buses are also pretty dependable – although try to find direct services if you don’t want to be immersing yourself in local culture every 15 miles! Ticket prices also vary depending on when you travel – with weekends and holidays being more expensive.
Travelling around Santiago your best bet is Chile’s pride and joy: the Metro. The most modern in South America by some distance, the Metro will get you around no problem, and is reasonably priced. Parts of the network have some great artwork to brighten up your journey too. All in all a refreshingly efficient means of getting about.
Things to do while backpacking in Chile
Head to the mountains. Chile’s ski season runs from June to October, and is increasingly recognised as a world-class destination. There are several resorts as you head east from Santiago, and more as you head south. Chile does have plenty of mountains, and there is everything from well organised and managed resorts, through to some serious back country off-piste. If you’ve got time and you enjoy your winter sports, then pencilling in a few weeks in Chile’s mountains is the perfect antithesis to all of those tropical beaches elsewhere on the backpacker circuit!
Easter Island. Not technically on Chile, but the islands are owned by Chile. Home to over 800 world famous statues (or Moai) some of which are 100 feet high... Carved by Polynesians between 1000 and 1500 AD the sheer magnitude and eeriness of the statues really is unbelievable. Of course – this being South America – getting there is a 5 hour flight from Santiago, but if you’re weighing up ‘epic experiences’ for your backpacking travels then Easter Island may well be high up your list.
Santiago. The Capital may lack some of the romance and reputation of other South America capitals, but – perhaps because of this - it is a great place to hang out for a few days. Plus visually it is a remarkable place – framed by Andean peaks to the east and the coastal mountains to the west. Get away from the centre of the city and there are some great (and cheap!) bars and clubs. Plus you get to cruise around on the metro which feels like a little bit of London or New York in South America.
Wine. They have been making wine in Chile for centuries, but it is only in the last 20 years or so that it has developed its reputation as one of the ‘premier league’ producers of the New World wine producing nations. There are plenty of vineyard and tours (and much cheaper than, say, Australia). Or if you don’t go on a tour, do make sure you pick up a few bottles from the supermarket: it is great wine!
There is no doubt that, as backpacking destinations go, Chile requires a bit more commitment than other spots. You should definitely take it on though. If you’re time limited, then maybe look at flying to Santiago and basing yourself there for a while: you can easily keep yourself busy for a few weeks with activities within 100 miles of the capital (skiing, trekking, vineyards). If you have more time, however, then Chile really is a great place to cruise around, with experiences as many and varied as the climate to be had... And definitely slightly beyond the realm of many backpacking tours: which can be a good thing sometimes!
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