Backpacking CambodiaWhereas tourism is the staple for many countries on the South East Asian backpacking circuit, Cambodia has only recently become a viable – and safe – option for the international backpacker. Ruined by decades of war and the horrors perpetrated by the Khmer Rouge, Cambodia is now rediscovering itself and inviting tourists to be part of the journey. It may lack the ‘established’ trails of elsewhere in the region but – well, you are meant to be ‘travelling’ - so be sure to devote some time to Cambodia, where you’ll find a genuine and seductive culture, mind-blowing scenery and beat the rush to see somewhere truly special before mass-tourism arrives...
Where is it and what’s there?Attached to Laos and Thailand to the North, and Vietnam to the South and East, approximately a quarter of Cambodia dips its toes into the Gulf of Thailand, with associated palm-fringed and white sanded beaches. The capital is Phnom Penh – a popular haunt for visitors – and the country’s topography (and consequently industry) is dominated by the Mekong River, which serves to nourish the paddy fields, and provide an abundant source of fish: the staple Cambodian diet.The ClimateCambodia is entirely in the tropics. As such its primary climactic feature is ‘monsoons’, which can be relentless. The wet season runs from May until October when temperatures ‘fall’ to 22° and humidity is consistently high, and the dry season runs from November until April when temperatures can rise to 40°. The best months to visit are probably between November and January, when the temperature is pretty comfortable, and the humidity likely to keep your ‘t-shirts per day’ count in single figures. Cambodia during the wet season – aside from being a monsoon-dodging experience – can also cause problems in terms of travelling around as, aside from the main roads, many routes become impassable.Getting there and visasFor most South East Asian backpackers, Cambodia isn’t a ‘primary’ destination, and as such you probably won’t arrive by air. Most probably you’ll be making your way to one of the border crossings and getting in that way. Cambodia has two types of border crossing: ‘local’ and ‘international’. No prizes for working out that you need to find your way to an international one. You can get in to Cambodia from Thailand, Laos and Vietnam. One of the most popular (and hectic!) crossings is the Aranyprathet (Thailand), Poipet crossing. This is the most practical if you’re arriving from Thailand – as many backpackers do.Visas are available on arrival at all international crossings, but you may well find yourself at the whim of officials in terms of how much these cost. A better way (if you are able to plan ahead) is to purchase an eVisa before you cross, as these leave no scope for ‘negotiation’. Both types of visa are valid for 30 days and can be extended – once – by a further 30 days.
Getting aroundIn general terms, if you want to get anywhere quickly then you’ll need to fly! But this would be missing the point and mean missing out on much of Cambodia’s magic. If you accept that you won’t be travelling at an average 60mph, and that your bus may or may not arrive on time, then you will always get there eventually - and generally with a tale to tell.The major roads network is now ‘monsoon proof’ and relatively extensive, and the bus network has improved massively in recent times and is now – almost – ‘reliable’! There is a range of private companies that run buses between the major towns and cities, and these are probably the most dependable way of getting around. If travelling shorter distances (or longer distances if there are 4 or 5 of you and you’re splitting the fare), then taxis are a viable option – although check the taxi before you commit! If you’re in any kind of a populated area, then you’ll also have no problem finding a ‘motodop’ – basically a man and a motorbike. These can be a great way of getting around, especially in cities, although – again – check the bike and always, always wear a helmet. Things to doOne of the great things about backpacking around Cambodia is that there is a clearly defined tourist area and, if you leave this, you will quickly find yourself immersed in Cambodian life and away from the tourist throng. It’s up to you how deep you want to go but (baring the expected low level pickpocket style crime in tourist areas) Cambodia is essentially a safe country and the people accommodating and always hospitable. Here are a few ideas to get you started:• Angkor. Firmly in the ‘part of the tourist area’ camp, the ancient temple complex is still a breathtaking and ‘perspective-altering’ experience and Siem Reap (of Angelina Jolie and Tombraider fame) a beautiful, beautiful city. • Dolphins. Spend some time at Kratie watching the freshwater Mekong dolphins. Say no more. • Killing Fields. Sometimes there are things that – as humans – we must see... The killing fields are a reminder of the darkest side of humanity and you should take some time out to respect, remember and to learn... • Phenom Penh. The vivacious capital has much more to offer than many give it credit. Dig a bit deeper and feast on history, political intrigue and fantastic restaurants. • Beaches. These can be summed up in a few words: stunning, endless, empty. Think Thailand without the crowds... • Spend some time in the srok (rural provinces). Do take time to explore further afield, put a pin in your map and just go there! Rural Cambodia is completely timeless and the perfect antithesis western life. Just slow down and absorb the endless sugar palms, and perpetual rice paddies... However much – or little – time you commit to backpacking around Cambodia, it will repay you times ten... It really is the quintessential South East Asia and a humbling reminder of where you really are. Make sure it’s on your list and maybe pencil in a bit more time than you think... Return From Backpacking Cambodia to Backpacking World
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