Backpacking in Bolivia

Bolivia has a big reputation amongst prospective South American backpackers. The country is often chosen as a ‘mid way’ stop off – somewhere to spend a few weeks taking stock, and somewhere where you won’t spend too much cash. It is perhaps the most ‘authentic’ Latin American country, with between half and two-thirds of the population indigenous. It is cheaper than its neighbours, has some of South America’s prime backpacker ‘must do’s’ and is a great place to hang out. So, in short, Bolivia does live up to its reputation!

The capital La Paz feels like the epicentre of the continent (and is proud of its status as the highest capital in the world), and Bolivia also offers the cheapest opportunity to have some proper ‘jungle time’, as well as plenty of opportunities to experience South American culture at its finest. This said – authenticity comes at a price – and getting around Bolivia can be challenging... Definitely a South American highlight though, and you can get by on a lot less than most other countries in the continent. So, if you’ve gone on one too many tours, definitely the place to get to if you want to avoid ending your backpacking tour 3 months early...

Where is it and what’s there

Bolivia and neighbouring Paraguay are South America’s only land-locked countries. Bolivia shares borders with Paraguay and Argentina to the south, Chile and Peru to the west, and Brazil to the north east.

As with many South American countries, the Andes are the most prominent feature of the country and much of the country (including La Paz) is in the Andes. The eastern lowlands take in large parts of the Amazon rainforest, and the south eastern quadrant is home to the world’s largest salt flat: the Salar de Uyuni.

The climate

The weather can catch you out in Bolivia. In the highlands (including La Paz), temperatures regularly drop below freezing at night times and the winter is just generally cold. Summer runs from November through to March and is warmer, but can be very wet... The most popular time for tourists is from late June through to September, and means that you can sneak between seasons and miss out on the weather extremities.

Further east – once you’re clear of the Andes – the weather is essentially tropical, and is generally very hot with associated tropical rainfall. Definitely a destination where you need plenty of layers, some waterproofs, and a decent sleeping bag.

Getting there and visas

Bolivia has 2 main airports: one in the capital, and one further south in Santa Cruz. Both are well served from other South American cities, and are also on international routes if you’re planning on beginning your backpacking tour in Bolivia (not a bad option: it is literally at the heart of South America).

If you have a passport from an EU country then you can get a free 30 day visa on arrival which can be extended to up to 90 days. Citizens of several other countries (now including the US) will have to purchase a visa - this can be done on arrival.

Getting around

The odds are stacked against you for an easy ride around Bolivia. A combination of topography and poor investment in infrastructure can make getting from A to B an interesting backpacking experience. Although roads between main cities are generally ok, they are often caught out during the wet season and can become impassable. To make things trickier, Bolivia also lacks a low cost airline - flights aren’t prohibitively expensive, but if you’ve hit Bolivia to save a bit of cash, they could be your undoing. Your best bet is to book your bus journey in advance (think about going overnight), and – especially if the weather is poor – give yourself some leeway if you have to make an onward connection!

Things to Do while backpacking in Bolivia

La Paz. The capital is perhaps the most genuine South American. Although it can get touristy during popular times, it is still very much a functioning metropolis, and not tourist dependent. There are miles of ‘lose yourself’ roads and alleyways, and you can’t not feel immersed in the culture. Remember that you are at altitude though: walking around is more tiring - so take regular sit downs.

The Amazon. If you’ve budgeted to do a jungle tour, then Bolivia offers you your cheapest opportunity. Several companies operate from La Paz, and can take you deep into the jungle on foot, or by canoe for the true Amazonian experience.

Trekking. There are plenty of ways to climb around the Cordillera Real which has 6 peaks higher than 6000m. There are various organised routes, many of which can be tackled with guides and mules. Several tours start from the small town of Sorata, at the base of the Illampu mountains and a few hours from La Pas.

Che Guevara Trail. You can follow in the final footsteps of the world’s most iconic revolutionary from Santa Cruz to La Higuera, where the Bolivian authorities caught up with and shot him – sealing his reputation forever. There is a museum and a few famous spots to see: plus it is a great taste of rural Bolivia.

Salar de Uyuni. At over 4000 square miles, the world’s largest salt flat. Earning its name, the salt flat is impossibly flat: with a maximum variation over the entire area of 1 metre. A surreal and fantastic site – definitely one to see, and get some pictures of: just awesome.

Mountain Biking. Not just any old mountain biking either. Since its closure to motorised traffic, the mountain bike route down the world’s most dangerous road is now a recognised activity and popular with backpackers from around the world. At over 40 miles long (from the Andes down to the Amazon), it is a long day out and you definitely need to do it with a guide. And go with a reputable company. For many adrenaline junkies, this is the pinnacle of their South American trip.

Bolivia is deservedly one of the top stops on any backpacking tour of the continent. There is plenty to do, loads of other backpackers to meet up with and it won’t have you reaching for your ‘emergency’ credit card.

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